than ideal for sunbathing. The line to enter stretched around the block. Clockwise from top left: Frank Gehrys Fish, which overlooks the water from between the citys two skyscrapers, Hotel Arts and the Mapfre office building; Antoni Llenas David i Goliath, which was built for the 1992 Olympics; Rebecca Horns Homenatge. Ciutadella is always crowded and was particularly so because of Wednesdays holiday. For dinner we headed up to Gracia, the neighborhood north of LEixample. Having done a Gaudi warm-up the day before with his apartment buildings in LEixample, we were ready for Barcelonas main attraction: Sagrada Familia. My speaking abilities are atrocious, but I was shocked at what I had retained from a comprehension perspective, thus validating the placement of conversational Catalan as a skill on my resume. After the Franco-era ban was lifted, locals returned to speaking their native tongue, and today, it is the language of choice among many young people. Still, the mild waters provide great relief on a record-setting hot day. The neighborhood is dotted with squares that are filled with bars and restaurants.